Tuesday 27 September 2011
Thursday 22 September 2011
Auckland city of sail Ladies
Hi every one i am using the wonderful D3S with the AFS 35mm lens and it is fast and sharp
this was shot so fast the AF is brilliant it is a great camera . The setting were shot in manual
and i choice vivid for my color balance and low D lighting.
Nikon D3s 500sec - 250 ISO- F- 7.1
Have a great day and happy shooting from the team of sharpphotography.
this was shot so fast the AF is brilliant it is a great camera . The setting were shot in manual
and i choice vivid for my color balance and low D lighting.
Nikon D3s 500sec - 250 ISO- F- 7.1
Have a great day and happy shooting from the team of sharpphotography.
Tuesday 20 September 2011
Canon 1dmk 4
Wedding Day 2011
Tuesday, 20 September 2011
Jumping in the air with the 1 D mark 4
every body i was out shooting in the weekend and i took the kids down to out local BMX track .
and i happen to come across these young guys jumping the jumps on the track. So i ask them to stage some for me . I use the 70-200 mm canon 2.8 f L and i told the camera to shot in AV and made the shutter
speed not to come below 1000 th of a sec and put the ISO in Auto .
Canon 1 d mark 4 - 1000 sec - F- stop 7.1 - ISO 200
This was shot at 200mm and i was standing back watching them come down the track having heaps of fun!!
Canon 1 d mark 4 - 1000 sec - F- stop 7.1 - ISO 200
This was a cropped version on the mark 4 and it handle very well lovely detail it is so nice to use!
Canon 1 d mark 4 - 1000 sec - F- stop 7.1 - ISO 200
All shot were put through on CS5 and not much has been adjusted .
Canon 1 d mark 4 - 1000 sec - F- stop 7.1 - ISO 200
Well have a good week and happy shooting from our team Sharpphotography,
Simon
Posted by SharpPhotoPro at 02:50 0 comments
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Thursday, 15 September 2011
World cup Rugby 2011 Fire works
Hi all here is video of the fire works of the night. we got to our spot at 2.00 pm and 4 other photographers were there before us and we all waited until 8.00 pm when the fire work started.
This is the golden hour before fire works
Nikon D3X 70-200mm
Canon 1 d mark 4 setting Bulb 6 sec, F 8 , ISO 125
Canon 1 d mark 4 setting Bulb 6 sec, F 8 , ISO 125
This is a picture of the night
Canon 1 d mark 4 setting Bulb 6 sec, F 8 , ISO 125
Canon 1 d mark 4 setting Bulb 6 sec, F 8 , ISO 125
The trick is to have a great trip pod using low ISO and timing is very important .
Always use a cable release and use bulb to bring light into your picture .
F- Stop should be about F-8 to F- 11
Canon 1 d mark 4 setting Bulb 6 sec, F 8 , ISO 125
Nikon D3s
Thanks every one from the team of www.sharpphotography.co.nz
Posted by SharpPhotoPro at 11:06 0 comments
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Labels: Fire works world cup rugby 2011
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Tuesday, 20 September 2011
Jumping in the air with the 1 D mark 4
every body i was out shooting in the weekend and i took the kids down to out local BMX track .
and i happen to come across these young guys jumping the jumps on the track. So i ask them to stage some for me . I use the 70-200 mm canon 2.8 f L and i told the camera to shot in AV and made the shutter
speed not to come below 1000 th of a sec and put the ISO in Auto .
Canon 1 d mark 4 - 1000 sec - F- stop 7.1 - ISO 200
This was shot at 200mm and i was standing back watching them come down the track having heaps of fun!!
Canon 1 d mark 4 - 1000 sec - F- stop 7.1 - ISO 200
This was a cropped version on the mark 4 and it handle very well lovely detail it is so nice to use!
Canon 1 d mark 4 - 1000 sec - F- stop 7.1 - ISO 200
All shot were put through on CS5 and not much has been adjusted .
Canon 1 d mark 4 - 1000 sec - F- stop 7.1 - ISO 200
Well have a good week and happy shooting from our team Sharpphotography,
Simon
Posted by SharpPhotoPro at 02:50 0 comments
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Thursday, 15 September 2011
World cup Rugby 2011 Fire works
Hi all here is video of the fire works of the night. we got to our spot at 2.00 pm and 4 other photographers were there before us and we all waited until 8.00 pm when the fire work started.
This is the golden hour before fire works
Nikon D3X 70-200mm
Canon 1 d mark 4 setting Bulb 6 sec, F 8 , ISO 125
Canon 1 d mark 4 setting Bulb 6 sec, F 8 , ISO 125
This is a picture of the night
Canon 1 d mark 4 setting Bulb 6 sec, F 8 , ISO 125
Canon 1 d mark 4 setting Bulb 6 sec, F 8 , ISO 125
The trick is to have a great trip pod using low ISO and timing is very important .
Always use a cable release and use bulb to bring light into your picture .
F- Stop should be about F-8 to F- 11
Canon 1 d mark 4 setting Bulb 6 sec, F 8 , ISO 125
Nikon D3s
Thanks every one from the team of www.sharpphotography.co.nz
Posted by SharpPhotoPro at 11:06 0 comments
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Labels: Fire works world cup rugby 2011
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Tuesday 6 September 2011
Sun sets with the 1 Dmark 4 canon
Tonight`s posting is a sun set on the Canon 1 D mark 4 the set up time had to be very quick.
The was very bright and there were no clouds to hide the glare so i used some Filters tonight.
1: Hoya 77mm MC-ND2 srew on Filter
Neutral density (ND) filters are designed to reduce the amount of light that gets to the image sensor in your digital camera without affecting the colour. Since it dims the whole image, it allows you to keep your shutter open a bit longer or set a wide lens aperture while avoiding overexposure in brighter conditions.
If you have ever seen a photo where the water looks like a silky stream of fog rolling over rocks, then most probably that photograph was taken with the help of a neutral density filter. Also, achieving shallow depth of field in bright light is very hard. Using a neutral density filter, you can not only slow action down enough to get the effect of a soft blurred water , but you can also improve the background blur behind your subject - a highly desirable feature for many photographers.
Utilising a neutral density filter can be very handy when you want to make moving objects less apparent or even invisible in a scene. Imagine that you are trying to capture an image of a building but you find the moving cars and people in your scene distracting. Using a higher grade neutral density filter will allow you to shoot at a longer exposure where any individual person or vehicle will not be in the image long enough to register.
Neutral density filters come with various assigned filter factors which indicate the amount of light reduction. Be aware that different manufacturers label the filter factors differently making it sometimes difficult to understand how much light a given ND filter blocks. The effects are the same, only the labelling is different:
Amount of Light Blocked in f-stops Amount of Light Blocked in Fraction Nikon, Hoya, B+W and Cokin Tiffen, Lee Leica
1 1/2 ND2, ND2X 0.3 ND 2X
2 1/4 ND4, ND4X 0.6 ND 4X
3 1/8 ND8, ND8X 0.9ND 8X
4 1/16 ND16, ND16X 1.2 ND 16X
5 1/32 ND32, ND32X 1.5 ND 32X
6 1/64 ND64, ND64X 1.8 ND 64X
2:Cokin warming filter
Canon 1 Dmark4 1/500 sec, F.stop 13, ISO 2000
Last night
1:Cokin warming filter
2: polarizer Filter
Polarizing filters (aka "polarizers") are perhaps the most important of any filter for landscape photography. They work by reducing the amount of reflected light that passes to your camera's sensor. Similar to polarizing sunglasses, polarizers will make skies appear deeper blue, will reduce glare and reflections off of water and other surfaces, and will reduce the contrast between land and sky.
Canon 1 Dmark4 1/500 sec, F.stop 7.1 , ISO 125
The Cokin warming filter
Cokin Landscape 1 filter kit: Warm 81 EF (P037)
A simple square of light orangey yellow plastic, the warm up filter will add an element of warmth to a Sunset evening sky and you can also work the camera in the K and bring it down to 3200 tungsten lighting if it is to warm.
Mounting on the end of your camera
In the case of front camera lens filters, you can fit the lens filter with the use of a filter holder kit. Front camera lens filters are generally more flexible than the circular versions as they can be used on any lens diameter, however can feel more cumbersome to use as they need to be held in front of the lens.
The was very bright and there were no clouds to hide the glare so i used some Filters tonight.
1: Hoya 77mm MC-ND2 srew on Filter
Neutral density (ND) filters are designed to reduce the amount of light that gets to the image sensor in your digital camera without affecting the colour. Since it dims the whole image, it allows you to keep your shutter open a bit longer or set a wide lens aperture while avoiding overexposure in brighter conditions.
If you have ever seen a photo where the water looks like a silky stream of fog rolling over rocks, then most probably that photograph was taken with the help of a neutral density filter. Also, achieving shallow depth of field in bright light is very hard. Using a neutral density filter, you can not only slow action down enough to get the effect of a soft blurred water , but you can also improve the background blur behind your subject - a highly desirable feature for many photographers.
Utilising a neutral density filter can be very handy when you want to make moving objects less apparent or even invisible in a scene. Imagine that you are trying to capture an image of a building but you find the moving cars and people in your scene distracting. Using a higher grade neutral density filter will allow you to shoot at a longer exposure where any individual person or vehicle will not be in the image long enough to register.
Neutral density filters come with various assigned filter factors which indicate the amount of light reduction. Be aware that different manufacturers label the filter factors differently making it sometimes difficult to understand how much light a given ND filter blocks. The effects are the same, only the labelling is different:
Amount of Light Blocked in f-stops Amount of Light Blocked in Fraction Nikon, Hoya, B+W and Cokin Tiffen, Lee Leica
1 1/2 ND2, ND2X 0.3 ND 2X
2 1/4 ND4, ND4X 0.6 ND 4X
3 1/8 ND8, ND8X 0.9ND 8X
4 1/16 ND16, ND16X 1.2 ND 16X
5 1/32 ND32, ND32X 1.5 ND 32X
6 1/64 ND64, ND64X 1.8 ND 64X
2:Cokin warming filter
Canon 1 Dmark4 1/500 sec, F.stop 13, ISO 2000
Last night
1:Cokin warming filter
2: polarizer Filter
Polarizing filters (aka "polarizers") are perhaps the most important of any filter for landscape photography. They work by reducing the amount of reflected light that passes to your camera's sensor. Similar to polarizing sunglasses, polarizers will make skies appear deeper blue, will reduce glare and reflections off of water and other surfaces, and will reduce the contrast between land and sky.
Canon 1 Dmark4 1/500 sec, F.stop 7.1 , ISO 125
The Cokin warming filter
Cokin Landscape 1 filter kit: Warm 81 EF (P037)
A simple square of light orangey yellow plastic, the warm up filter will add an element of warmth to a Sunset evening sky and you can also work the camera in the K and bring it down to 3200 tungsten lighting if it is to warm.
Mounting on the end of your camera
In the case of front camera lens filters, you can fit the lens filter with the use of a filter holder kit. Front camera lens filters are generally more flexible than the circular versions as they can be used on any lens diameter, however can feel more cumbersome to use as they need to be held in front of the lens.
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